Sumptuary laws have been instituted throughout history. They are generally meant to distinguish rank in society, although some have included identifying people of other religions. Often they are precipitated when merchants and tradesmen can afford to dress more expensively than the nobility. Hayward (history, University of Southampton) has combed wills, portraits, account books and other evidence to compare the laws passed by Henry VIII of England with actual practice. Although only men not in the Church were subject to these laws, Heywood includes apparel for women and others who were exempted. She discusses social reasons for certain types of clothing such as weddings and funerals as well as clothes for pregnancy. The class structure that demanded sartorial identification is also examined. She covers materials, such as velvet, fustian and cloth of gold as well as colors, which were also regimented. From wills, especially, Heywood found that most people, men and women, stayed within their social order in clothing, the worst offenders being the gentry, aiming at a higher position. Pictures, tables and graphs add to the study. Annotation ©2009 Book News, Inc., Portland, OR (booknews.com)