<DIV>Budapest is no longer just the tatty gem of old, the Danube pearl tucked away behind Vienna, cherished by a handful of curious and discerning travelers. Now an EU capital, Hungary&#8217;s flagship city has added cosmopolitan luxury to its five-star hotel stock, the latest treatments to its modernized spa centers, inventive reductions, drizzles and sauces to its cuisine, and designer vroom to its caf&#233;s. Without losing the charms of yesteryear, nor hiking up the ticket prices for a swift transport network, grand opera or a visit to the most ornate of cinemas, Hungary&#8217;s capital is amiable and affordable. Using a pool of resident writers who have lived through the changes from immediately post-Soviet to EU metropolis, this seventh edition of Time Out Budapest evaluates the contemporary city and suggests how a rapidly increasing number of visitors can best enjoy it.</DIV>