The tectonic lakes of Macedonia, Ohrid and Prespa, are among the most ancient and enthralling in the world, abundant in rare wildlife and and the seat of mediaeval kingdoms, richly endowed with sacred shrines, mysteries and watery legends. In this account of a circular summertime journey with his wife and young son around the lakeshores, passing through three countries, Greece, Albania and the former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, the author seeks out the spirit of the lakes, through encounters with fishermen, philosophers, archaeologists and snakes.<BR>Getting below the surface of everyday life and revealing the deep historical wounds and controversies that are still manifest in this divided and much fought-over land, this travelogue is also an evocative and amusing chronicle of travels in one of the most stunning and historically significant areas of Europe, one which, however, still remains largely unknown in the West.