<DIV>Prague's rebirth as a vibrant Western-style city continues to blossom, with the traces of East bloc communism increasingly hard to uncover. At the same time, the City of Spires is also returning to its roots as a decadent, jubilant place that made the word bohemia into a common noun. The smoky jazz clubs, rowdy, cruisy bars and stunning symphony halls have been restored to the spirit and role they once served. Day-trips, as well as suggested overnights from Prague, are also covered.<BR></DIV>