<DIV>Albania is the least-known and least developed country in Europe. It has a long, rich and troubled past, characterised by unrest and isolationism. Today, very little is known of its people - beyond those who have emigrated to other countries in Europe - and its landscapes have remained virtually untravelled for centuries. Determined to discover the country behind the stereotypes and preconceptions, Robin Hanbury-Tenison and his wife Louella rode across Albania, from Thethi in the north to the border with Greece in the south. </p>Following in the footsteps of Byron, Edward Lear and Edith Durham they crossed some of the most wild and arrestingly beautiful landscape in Europe. Through soaring mountain ranges and hidden valleys dotted with Illyrian, Roman and Byzantine ruins they lived simply; staying in the homes of communities untouched by the 21st century and in towns bursting with artistic creativity. They discovered an ancient land, proud and fiercely independent, struggling to emerge from the darkness of repression and poverty and from the shadows of its more popular neighbours. </p></div>